Tartan is arguably the best-known cloth in the world, and although it is become recognised as Scotland's national costume, occupying a unique place in the hearts and minds of millions of Scots, it is not peculiar to Scotland. From the times of the early clansman to the modern Scottish regiments, the kilt, plaid, trews and tartan have constituted the unmistakable costume of the Scot. The dress today remains attractive, distinctive, and colourful. It has come to be linked with the virtues of courage and hardiness, with love of an area (district), and the music, poetry and culture of a nation.

However, many aspects of tartan and so-called 'Highland dress' are controversial, and the subject is surrounded by a number of myths. The word 'tartan', now associated by most people with the precisely patterned, intricately woven and multi-coloured cloth, is in itself a matter for debate. Some claim that it derives from the Irish-Scots words 'tuar' and 'tan' meaning 'colour' and 'district' respectively. Others that it derives from a Middle French word, 'tiretaine' which referred to the quality of material of a thin coarse linen and wool mixture, while an old Spanish word of similar root 'tartana' which means 'shiver' and refers to a very fine quality cloth. The Gaelic word for tartan is 'breacan' meaning 'chequered', variegated' or 'speckled'.

In Scotland, by the 16th century the word tartan was being widely used by English and Scots speakers alike to describe the distinctly woven cloth. In 1538, King James V, father of Mary, Queen of Scots, purchased 'three ells of Heland tartan'. However the name seems to have applied to a type and quality of cloth rather than to a design, a usage that had changed gradually by the 18th century. Similarly the original practice of making tartan from light rather than warm material was also steadily reversed over many generations. Nowadays tartan is generally defined as a fabric woven in bands of coloured yarn that repeat in sequence, not only across the width, but along the length of the cloth. A new hue is formed wherever bands of a different colour cross. It is sometimes said that the modern form of dress bears little relationship to that worn in the past, but this is not the case. All national costumes evolve over the centuries and what we see today in Scotland is a stylised version of an ancient garb.

And although tartan cloth is perceived as being 'Scottish', it is simply a particular form of woven cloth that derives from Scotland, and should never be considered exclusive to Scots or people of Scottish descent. It is in fact a universal material that can and should be worn in any form and by anyone who finds it attractive. Tartan and the pleasure that people get from wearing it is Scotland's gift to the world.